Robot Retrofit

[Michael Kapp]

This thread is to be used to discuss the specific changes and procedures to the robot on Thursday at Palmetto. We should think it out thoroughly and list each step so that we do not encounter unforeseen problems as we do it. If anyone notices any conflicts or issues with anything, we need to discuss it.

To install the roller:
Remove the lower horizontal and the inner vertical bars from the front face of the chassis.
Cut the bars that the gearboxes sit on 1" shorter to accommodate the double 8020 for the roller.
Mount the double 8020 + roller + backing assembly to the chassis.
Mount and chain the window motor for the roller.
Mount a short vertical bar of 8020 directly behind the left side double 8020 to mount the bumper switch. It will probably need to be mounted from the upper part of the chassis so as not to interfere with placement of the bearing blocks for the kicker.
Wire bumper switch to the digital I/O and the roller motor to a victor (we don't want a jag, correct?).
(?) We might want to add horizontal supports between the double 8020 and the front corner vertical supports just for strength, but they would need to be above the roller. (?)

To shift the wheels:
Remove front wheels.
Remove front wheel plates.
Cut front wheel plates.
Move back wheels forward.
Move gearboxes and idler sprockets forward.
Re-mount and re-chain front wheels and plates.

To install bottom bar:
Measure, cut, and tap the bar.
(?) Cut or shave off the bottom front edges of the cube gussets that hold the bottom bar (to improve bump-crossing) (?)
Mount vertical pieces to bottom of chassis and mount bottom bar.

We will also need to retrofit the kicker. I do not know exactly what this entails, but it will need to clear the bottom bar and the backing and the bumper switch for the backing, and we will need something to stop its kick.

Other minor details:
Replace the kicker limit switch with a bumper sensor.
Re-mount the surgical tubing, camera, and plexi dome.
The old plate on the back of the robot to prevent running over the balls will now hit the bump due to the wheel shift. I suggest replacing it with a shaft directly behind the back wheels and spanning the width of the robot, which is to be mounted with 2 drilled-out pieces of 8020 mounted to the underside of the chassis.
I would like to mount a small piece from the underside of the electronics panel to keep the kicker rope from de-spooling off of the spool.

All of our major changes can be made with the robot upside down, and we can probably mount the roller and fix the wheels simultaneously without much conflict. We can then install the bottom bar and make other minor changes, and then test it! (2 hours building max)

[Sunny]

Another minor change is that in the last match, the air tanks fell off. So we might wanna take the screw in bands, and make sure our cylinders are stable.

I think we should put on the long bars for the Plexi first. They were really helpful in propping up the robot.

I think Divide and Conquer are the big components here. Patrick and I can perform install bottom bar, install roller, and install window motor. We have to screw in a grand total of 20 screws, wire, and tweak.

I think Kapp, Tanner, and Stephen can handle the wheels. Loosen roughly 20 screws and slide forward 2", and then take off the front plates.

After the above are done. We turn on the robot. I will tweak the sucker, Kapp and work on the back of the bot, and Patrick can mod the kicker.

After this, we can switch out the sensors and run.

[Tanner]

Cut the bars that the gearboxes sit on 1" shorter to accommodate the double 8020 for the roller.

We have to cut those long 8020 bars? Weren't we able to switch to/fro those before we shipped in like 10 minutes with no cutting? Did something change.

-Tanner

[Michael Kapp]

Cut the bars that the gearboxes sit on 1" shorter to accommodate the double 8020 for the roller.

We have to cut those long 8020 bars? Weren't we able to switch to/fro those before we shipped in like 10 minutes with no cutting? Did something change.

-Tanner

I have no idea what you mean about switching the long bars under the gearbox in 10 minutes, but the fact is, we have to cut them 1" shorter.

And an addition to the roller steps:
Cut a bar of 8020 to span from the electronics panel to the front of the chassis. This bar will then be used to mount the window motor for the roller.

I don't suppose we we this dimension, do we?

Also, if we can, we will try to cut new wheel plates tuesday instead of waiting for them to be cut thursday.

[Tanner]

I have no idea what you mean about switching the long bars under the gearbox in 10 minutes, but the fact is, we have to cut them 1" shorter.

No, like before we could switch to the roller system in a good 10-20 minutes by taking on/off some short double 8020 vertical pieces.

-Tanner

[livedj1173]

so i take it i dont have to do anything during that time..... cause i didnt see my name on the things to do

[ptwortman]

just a thought:
to keep the balls from getting under us, from any direction, might i suggest we replace the metal bar stopper or w/e with the brushes i took apart on thursday? i think they are strong/sturdy enough to prevent a ball from getting past.

the brushes would also make it easier to go over the bump, since they would be one less thing to worry about clearance and all

[Michael Kapp]

I have no idea what you mean about switching the long bars under the gearbox in 10 minutes, but the fact is, we have to cut them 1" shorter.

No, like before we could switch to the roller system in a good 10-20 minutes by taking on/off some short double 8020 vertical pieces.

-Tanner

But before, the double 8020 just sat on top of the long bars. If we want to do this right, we have to extend the double 8020 an inch further down, which means cutting the long bars.

just a thought:
to keep the balls from getting under us, from any direction, might i suggest we replace the metal bar stopper or w/e with the brushes i took apart on thursday? i think they are strong/sturdy enough to prevent a ball from getting past.

the brushes would also make it easier to go over the bump, since they would be one less thing to worry about clearance and all

Actually if you're thinking about having the brushes touch the bump as we go over, then that is a really good idea because we can put brushes lower than we could put solid metal, thus they would work much better.

[Sunny]

Right, Earlier the roller sat higher. But now, we're pinching and compressing the ball, so the roller sits lower, and therefore we need to get rid of the 1" of 80-20.

Speaking of sits Lower...Kapp, was the height of the roller's new placement considered into the CAD? Or were those specs the old one's from last Saturday?

[Tanner]

Right, Earlier the roller sat higher. But now, we're pinching and compressing the ball, so the roller sits lower, and therefore we need to get rid of the 1" of 80-20.

That's going to be a pain...

-Tanner